Thanks Simon. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. Yes I would. P.S. Free shipping for many products! If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. Thanks! But then youre paying over twice the price. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Very good sales and marketing. Hi Salvatore, PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. (And which?). Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Brilliant. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. How about the Huntsman 100 product? Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. That pocket square fold is on point. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Pinterest. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. More than Poole, but less than A&S. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Cheers. Hi, Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. . Or would it be too structured? Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Today. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Thanks I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Any other recommendations? The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Thanks for your reply. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. No, not necessarily. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Maybe this blog will help change that. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. Simon I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. P.S. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. I dont know her which says something. No, the style is different in other ways too. Hi Simon Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. This looks perfect! Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Thank you. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Hi Richard Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Great thank you very much! On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Do you know anything about her? Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Thanks!! Would W&S be a good option. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. Thanks and all the best, Michael. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Youll have to contact them. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Hi Simon. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). But yes, I know the trend you mean. In my case, a long body and short legs! I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Thanks very much. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. It is another interesting approach. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. However, am i expecting too much? Includes access to the digital magazine. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. It looks great. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Watch. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Thank you very much for your assistance. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? This is slightly out of my budget. A bit more expensive but still good. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? The prices are comparable. i.e. A similar question. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. I want to have a morning suit made. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. 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